Elastic seam for garments



. Dec. 21, 1938. H. DIA OND 2141239 ELASTIC saw FOR emmms Filed June so,1937 Y z Sheets-Sheet i in HARRY ammo/v0 \NVENTOR ATTORNEY 2 Deb. 27,1938; H. DIAMOND 2,141,239

ELASTIC SEAM FOR GARMENTS Filed Jun so, 1937 s She et s-Shet 2 m 7 I f YI 2 HARRYD/AMOND INVENTOR. BY M ATTORNEY.

Dec. 27, 1938,. H, DlAMOND 141,239

ELASTIC SEAM FOR GARMENTS Filed June 30, 1937 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Ely/0 2438 "39 "'25 Q Q. Q Q

HARRY DIAMOND INVENTOR. BYM M A T TORNEY Patented Dec. 27, 1938 I UNITEDSTATES smsrrc seam roa asammrs Harry Diamond,

Cedar-burst, N; Y.

Application June 30,1937, Serial No. 1511210 3 Claims.

- This invention relates to improvements in garments of theclose-fitting type and particularly to undergarments known as slips".

An object of this invention is to provide a slip 5 having front and rearpanels which are connected at their side-edges by elastic seams havingan elastic thread cross-stitch throughout the entire length of thegarment so as to avoid tearing of the seams when the wearer changes froman upright 10 to a sitting position.

Another object of this invention is to cut thewoven fabric on the biasat the sides for the purpose of increasing the elasticity of the garmentto a certain degree and then seam the sides together .16 with an elasticthread cross-stitch, the said crossstitch being held in position on thetwo panels beneath two parallel rows of straight-line stitching ofnon-elastic threads.

Another object of this invention is to hem the 20 bias side-edges of thefront and rear panels so as to reinforce the edges and adapt said edgesfor transmitting a part of the transverse pull to the two woven fabricpanels without tearing the fabric.

25 Another object of this invention isto form the' elastic seam with thehemmed edges in adjoining relation so that when the fabric is stretchedtransversely the side edges of the panels will temporarily be pulledapart and provide an opening 30 for ventilation but will immediatelyclose back to normal when the distending stresses are relieved.

Another object of this invention is to place a cord in each of thefolded edges to prevent wrinkling of the hollow edges and to maintainthe 35 edges in parallel and distinct-linear form indefinitely.

Another object of this invention resides in a method by which'theelastic thread cross-stitched seam is formed in successive steps ofupfolding the edges .of two juxtaposed sections of fabric into adjoiningrelation, infoldingand guiding the sections towards two needles spacedapart crosswise of the line of seam formation, stitching both foldededges with non-elastic threads and uniting said sections into seamformation by interlacing an elastic thread cross-stitch between the tworows of straight line stitching and the sections of fabric.

50 This application is a continuation in part of my application SerialNo. 89,031, flied July 6,1936.

With the above'and other objects in view, the.

invention will be herinaftermore particularly described, and thecombination and arrangement ll of parts will be shown in theaccompanying draw .ings and pointed out in the claims .which form partof this specification.

Reference will now be had to the drawings, wherein like numerals ofreference designate cor-f responding parts throughout the several views.in which:

Figure 1 is a side view illustrating one type of garment to which thepresent invention is particularly adapted. i

Figure 2 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view, the section beingtaken 'as on -line-2-2 in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary portion of two adjoining panels ofthe garment shown in Figure 1, showing one of the elastic seams and anillustrated cross-stitch as it appears on the normally exposed surfaceof the garment.

Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary portion of two adjoining panels ofthe garment shown in Figure 1, showing the elastic seam as it appears onthe normally concealed surface of the garment.

Figure 5 is a cross-sectional view taken as on line 5-5 in Figure 3.

Figure 6 is a perspective view showing the manher of placing, infolding,stitching the folded edges with non-elastic thread and uniting the twofabric sections by interlacing an elastic thread cross-stitchbetweenfthe straight-line stitching and the fabric in successive steps.

Figure '7 is a sectional viewtaken as on line 80 '|1 in Figure 6.

Figure 8 is a sectional. view taken as on line 88 in Figure 6.

Figure .9 is a sectional view taken as on line 9--9 in Figure 6, showingthe seam as it appears Y with the elastic thread cross-stitch positionedon the normally concealed surfaces of the fabric sections. Figure 10 isan enlarged cross-sectional view of a modified elastic seam having acord filling in 40 each of the folded edges.

Figure 11 is a plan view of the hemmers.

v Figure 12 is a plan view of an elastic ribbon-like trimming simulatinga braideilfect which may be readily attached either as an insertbetween'panels or superimposed on a garment for the purposeofornamenting wearing apparel.

Figure 13 .is a sectional view of a modified reinforced elastic seamhaving facings in superposed relation on the folded edges of the fabricsections.

In the illustrated embodiments of theinvem tion, Figure. 1 shows asideview of a garment known as a woman's slip Ill to which a seam con-66 structed in accordance with the present invention is particularlyadapted.

The slip comprises a front panel I l and a rear panel I2, made of wovenfabric. The panels are cut on the bias at the sides for the purpose ofincreasing the elasticity of the garment transversely to a certaindegree. By cut on the bias or on the bias line is understood to be aline forming an angle of substantially 45 with the warp and fillerthreads. It is well known that a piece of woven fabric cannot bestretched to any appreciable extent in the direction of the warp threadsor in the direction of the filler threads but can be stretched to anappreciable extent along a bias line.

As shown in Figure 2, the slip ill has two seams l3, l3, at the sides ofthe garment. Each seam l3, best shown in Figure 5, comprises two sideedges of adjacent panels. The side edges are separately folded to formhems l4, 15. The hemmed side edges are stitched by two parallel rows ofstraight-line stitching I6, I! using nonelastic threads. This causes theraw edges of the fabric to be concealed inside the folds. The parallelrows of non-elastic straight-line stitching have been interlocked with across-stitch I8 using an elastic thread which is positioned intermediatethe fabric and the straight-line stitching. The spaced rows ofstraight-line stitches serve for anchoring the cross-stitches to thewoven material. The folded side edges of the panels II and I2 lie fiatin a single plane and so that the seam B has no undue bulkiness. Thehems l4 and I5 .face in opposite directions.

It will be noted that the hemmed fabric edges are normally in adjoiningor abutting relation so that when the two sections of fabric arestretched transversely the side edges of the panels will be temporarilypulled apart and provide a distinct linear opening for ventilation butwill immediately close back to the normal adjoining relation when thedistending stresses are relieved.

As shown in Figure 3, the length of each of the cross-threads issubstantially the same as the distance between the two rows ofstraight-line stitching so as to normally connect and hold the foldededges in flat and abutting relation and prevent the edges from beingspaced apart or from being in overlapping relation.

It will thus be seen that 1 have provided a woven fabric slip with anexpansible seam for the purpose of relieving the slip fabric ofdistending stresses which are taken up by the seam itself.

While I have shown the cross-stitching l8 as being placed on thenormally exposed surface of the garment I0, I may place thecross-stitching on the normally concealed surface of the garment andproduce an equivalent distending effect. herein described may be usedfor all kinds of garments having two or more panels and wherein it isdesired to make it possible for the folded edges of the adjoining panelsto be moved to and fro without rupture of the seams. Any portion of theseam l3 may be stretched transversely without affecting the otherportions of the seam. It is to be noted that the hemmed edges may befolded twice so as to conceal the raw edge, as shown, or a hem may beused wherein the edge portion of the fabric is folded only once andwherein the edge may be trimmed and exposed.

As best shown in-Figure 5, the parallel rows of straight line stitchingl6 and 11 are not interlocked and act independently of each other. If

The transversely elastic thread seam the lines of stitching I6 and I!were interlocked and non-elastic threads were used, it would prevent theelastic thread cross-stitch l8 from being stretched transversely. It ishowever within the field of this invention to provide. an elastic seamin which elastic cross-stitching may be used on-the normally.exposed aswell as on the normally concealed surfaces of the fabric.

Referring to Figures 6 to 9 inclusive, which show a distensible seam l9wherein the elastic thread cross-stitch 20 is positioned on the normallyconcealed surfaces of fabric sections, the method is carried out asfollows: Two fabric sections 2 I, 22 are positioned fiat and injuxtaposed relation on the base plate 23 of a combined two needle lockstitch and cross-thread laying sewing machine (not shown). The sections2| and 22 have their edges 24 and 25 infolded and guided toward theneedles 26 by two adjacent hemmers 21 and 28.

The needles 26 are spaced apart crosswise of the line of seam formationand form two parallel lines of lockstitch stitching 30 and 3| which arepositioned parallel with and are respectively equally spaced fromopposite sides of the seam. The elastic thread 32 is carried by athreadfinger 33 which has a bent lower end portion 34 at which end thethread is movedback and forth across the two lines of stitching so as tospreadthe elastic cross-stitch 20 beneath the needlethreads. Thethread-finger is secured at its upper end to a lever 35 fulcrumed on avertical rod 36 which, in practice, may be mounted in the head of thesewing machine. At the opposite end of the lever 35 is a rod 31 by whichthe lever and the attached thread-finger are swung laterally across andin front of the lower end of the needles 26.

Figure lOshows a modified elastic seam 29.

having a cord filling in each of the folded edges. When the upper andlower layers of the folded edges are pulled together taut by thestitching 30 an 3|, the cords 38, 39, are gripped inside the foldedfabric edges and held in the folds by frictional engagement and preventwrinkling of the hollow edges and serve to maintain said edges inparallel and linear form. The cords 38 and 39 are composed of severalstrands twisted together and are of circular cross-section.

As shown in Figure 11 the hemmers 40, 4! are spaced apart so as to causethe centers of the adjoining folded edges to be substantially in linewith the distance between the needles 26. The hemmers 40 and 4! aredesigned to fold down the fabric sections and so that the elastic threadcross-stitch is positionedon the normally exposed surfaces of the fabricsections, as shown in Figure 3. The thread-finger 33 is in practicedesigned to be moved laterally above the presser foot 42 in front of theneedles 26 so as to lay the elastic thread 32 in position for stitching.

Figure 12 shows an elastic ribbon-like trim-' ming or elastic seamingmeans 45 comprising two elongated strips of fabric 46, 46 which arepositioned in parallel relation and spaced apart transversely to providea permanent linear opening 41 between them. The adjacent edges at themiddle of the trimming have been infolded as indicated by the numerals48. The strips 46 have been united by an elastic thread cross-stitch 49heldin position by lock-stitching 50, 50.

It is to be noted that the elastic thread used for cross-stitching is ofmuch greater diameter than that of the needle threads.

It is also to be noted that theclaims to the article of manufacture arenot limited to the particular method herein described.

Figure 13 shows a modified elastic seam 5| comprising two juxtaposedfabric sections I2 and 53 having ther edges 84 and-55 folded in oppositedirections and being reinforced by first stitchinga facing or tape 56 oneach edge portion by lock-stitching 48 and then turning over andtopstitching the folded edge on the tape. These two stitching operationsare repeated on each fabric section. The reinforced sections are thenunited by an elastic cross-stitch I'I held together by lock-stitchingll.

I claim:

1. In a cross-stitched seam for an undergarment in the form of a slip,comprising two juxtaposed sections of woven fabric, each section havinga folded flat edge, said folded edges facing in opposite directions andbeing in abutting relation, said folded edges being stitched by twoparallel rows of straight-line stitching using noneiastic threads, saidparallel rows of straight-line stitching being connected byacross-stitch using an elastic thread, said elastic thread being tionedbetween said fabric and said straight-line stitching, each of saidcross-stitches being of the same length as the distance between the tworows of straight-line stitching so as to normally connect and hold saidfolded fabricedges in flat and abutting relation, said elasticcross-threads being individually held taut by said non-elastic threadsand being individually yieldable transversely to permit local transverseseparation of said abutting edges and a localized linear opening forventilation to be formed when said abutting edges are P lled apart.

2. In a cross-stitched seam for a garment, comprising two juxtaposedsections of fabric, each section having a folded edge, said folded edgesthe same length as the distance between the two.

rows of straight-line stitching so as to normally connect and hold saidfolded fabric edges in parallel relation, said elastic cross-threadsbeing in dividually held taut by said non-elastic threads I and beingindividually yieldable transversely to permit local transverseseparation of said edges and a localized linear opening for ventilationto be formed when 'said parallel edges are pulled apart.

3. In a cross-stitched seam for a garment, comprising two juxtaposedsections of fabric, each section having a folded edge, said folded edgesfacing in opposite directions and being in parallel relation, each ofsaid folded edges being 1 reinforced by stitching a tape thereto, saidreinforced edges being stitched by parallel rows of straight-linestitching using nonelastic threads,

' s'aid parallel rows of straight-line stitching being connected by across-stitch elastic thread, said elastic thread being positionedbetween said taped fabric and said last mentioned straight-linestitching, said cross-stitches being of equal lengths so as to normallyconnect and hold said folded fabric edges in parallel relation, saidelastic cross-threads being held taut by said nonelastic threads andbeing yieldabie transversely to permit local transverse separation ofsaid edges and a localized opening for ventilation to be formed whensaid parallel edges are pulled apart.

HARRY DIAMOND.

